The Museum of the Allied Landing, Cisterna and The Road to Rome

The Allied Landing Museum is small but mighty. There are a number of books, photos and artifacts all related to the invasion and subsequent battles. Imagine how pleased Dad will be to know that there is a 601 sign proudly hanging on the wall. Most impressive was the collection of photos on display. We saw many of the locations that we visited yesterday.

This 601 sign was brought to the museum by another 601 soldier.

This municipal building is a focal point in Nettuno and was built long before 1944. Dad may recognize it.

As we drove to Cisterna I read the account of the 601 engagement that occurred here.  Cisterna was the last stronghold until the road to Rome and was the scene of many firefights, starting in January of 1944 when Darby’s Rangers were surprised by the German’s and paid a heavy price. The 601 didn’t get here until late May of 1944. By that time the city was mostly rubble except for a church and a statue that remained standing. I’m wondering if Dad will recognize these landmarks. While troops were advancing toward Cisterna from the shore at Anzio, the Polish Regiment broke through at Monte Cassino resulting in a final push for Rome. The 601 had tragic losses and injuries along the way; they pressed forward. When my daughter asked Dad once how he could continue in the face of such horror and sadness he said, “You cry, you pray and you just keep going.”

This statue in Cisterna is the only surviving original structure.

This is the church in Cisterna. It suffered serious damage and was reconstructed.

On June 4, after 9 months, Rome fell! Several recon soldiers were sent into the city ahead of all others, just to make sure that the final parade into the city could occur without any resistance. Dad was one of those few men. One of his most vivid memories is of arriving in Rome, unopposed, and absorbing the magnificence of this ancient city.

Imagine, Dad initially landed in Salerno in September and was finally able to get into Rome in June. By the end of the Italian Campaign dad and his fellow soldiers were a battle hardened, confident fighting force. Their job wasn’t finished, however. They left Italy for France then Germany and Austria for another year of fighting until the war was over.

Although Dad saw the worst of mankind in war, he was still able to see the best of man in the people, art and culture of Italy. I, too, while learning about the military aspect of dad’s experience, have been able to experience the beauty of this marvelous country. I have experienced the gratitude that the people of Italy have for those who liberated them. I was presented with a certificate for Dad, from the Mayor of Nettuno, thanking Jim Stevens for his service and expressing sincere appreciation for his sacrifice. This was another moving moment. I can't wait to present it to Dad.

The Sicily Rome American Cemetery and Memorial

This is a beautiful tribute to the courage, the valor and the sacrifice made from Sicily to Rome and a peaceful resting place for those who gave their lives.

Brothers in Arms

 We found the grave of a 601 soldier, Francis J. Wasilk. He died on May 26, 1944, most likely in or near Cisterna. A very moving moment.

Nettuno and Anzio

The sun is shining now, but it poured as we visited the sites of the Anzio invasion. On January 22, 1944 American and British forces landed all along the beach from Nettuno to Anzio. The plan was that the troops coming in from the coast would combine with those who would eventually break through at Monte Cassino to advance to Rome as one powerful force. That did happen, eventually, but for 4 months the troops in Anzio and Nettuno had to fight their way inland while those trying to take Monte Cassino met with the obstacles I noted yesterday.

The 601 came ashore at X-ray Beach, attached to the 3rd Division.

The 601 history notes:
It is military history that there was no real opposition during those first days...elements of the 601st Recon Co. rode to within seventeen miles of Rome without drawing fire.

General Lucas, in charge of the entire operation, did not immediately advance (even though Jim Stevens reported that the way was clear) because he wanted to wait until he had more troops and supplies. On the fourth day, however, German forces arrived to drive the allies back to the beach. Thus, a four month delay in which allied troops were living in a shooting gallery. By day there was artillery fire from German troops on the nearby hills and at night dog-fights between messerschmidts and piper cubs, along with incessant bombing raids. The 601 history refers to the constant horror of the place. Lucas was relieved of command two weeks after the invasion.

During that 4 month period "There was a greater concentration of men and guns and tanks and destroyers on that little beachhead than anywhere else in the world."

I am in awe my father and his fellow soldiers who endured that daily hell.

McKeesporters, you knew this was going to happen!

This trip continues to prove that the McKeesport connection is everywhere. Our guide today was Silvano Casaldi, an historian from Nettuno. During our lunch in a little pasticceria in Nettuno I chatted with him about my mother being from Abruzzi. I explained that she left to go to Pittsburgh when she was 4.

Wait for it...

"Oh, Pittsburgh, I have cousins in Pittsburgh, well really in Bethel Park, Clairton and West Mifflin."

 "I know it well, I grew up in McKeesport."

"McKEESPORT! My uncle and my cousins lived in McKeesport for many years before moving to the other Pittsburgh suburbs. My uncle worked for National Tube works. I was just in that area 6 years ago to visit my cousins."

So, the streak continues of finding former McKeesporters in the darndest places.

Here we are together, Larry, Me, Silvano Casaldi and Mrs. Casaldi.

For my choir friends

I have heard so many stories of people who wander into a church to find an orchestra or chorus performing a glorious masterwork. I'm desperate to hear a little Palestrina while I'm here. Yesterday, Larry and I visited St. Maria Gorretti Basilica in Nettuno, Maria's home town. There was a mass going on so I'm thinking "OK, this is it!" and a guitar group started playing!!

We leave on Tuesday, the day the 16th Century Music Festival begins...

The Abbey at Monte Cassino

The Abbey of Monte Cassino is an imposing structure that stands 517 meters above sea level. It is the home of the Benedictine Monks founded by St. Benedict in about 529. Because of its position with a 360 degree view of the Liri Valley which leads into Rome, it has been the objective of armies for centuries. This magnificent abbey has been destroyed and rebuilt 4 times. The Longobards of Zotone (I have no idea who they were) destroyed it in 577, the Saracens destroyed it in 883, an earthquake destroyed it in 1349 and allied bombers destroyed it in 1944. Each time it has been rebuilt and in 1349 and 1944 it was restored to its splendor as a home to numerous manuscripts, mosaics, enamels, sculpture and frescoes.

Here is a photo of what it looked like after the 1944 bombing:

This is what it looked like before the bombing and what it looks like now:

So, why was it bombed? In order for the Allies to get to Rome, they had to get past this stronghold that was controlled by German forces. While it is generally agreed upon by historians that German forces were not in the Abbey, most will concur that observers were there and artillery was located on the mountain leading up to it. It remains a controversial decision.

There were three attempts to take Monte Cassino by various infantry regiments. The 34th infantry got close but saw it as another Gibraltar so they turned back, the Indian and New Zealand forces got even closer but were driven back. Finally, the Polish forces took it with a ferocity that expressed their hatred for Germany and what was done to Poland. It is interesting to note that a number of the Polish troops were Jewish. We stopped at the cemetery where over 1,000 Polish troops are buried.

Here is a scene from mid-way up the mountain. The abbey sits just beyond the crest of the hill. The road wasn't there then so it was a dangerous climb up the rocky hillside.

From what dad has told me, he was with the first group that attempted to get up Monte Cassino. Mostly likely, being in recon, he went ahead to report back that the hill was a fortress. He speaks of Germans hiding in the hills and firing down at them. Headquarters realized that they had to have another option so they began preparing for "Plan B" (my words). This plan involved landing in Anzio, a bit north, and skirting Monte Cassino. So, dad was sent back to Naples to prepare for the 3rd of his 4 amphibious landings - Anzio.

The Abbot, the monks and about 1,000 townsfolk took refuge in the Abbey because they were sure that it would be a safe refuge. They hid in crypts below the Abbey until the bombing was over. Those that survived climbed down the mountain afterward, led by the Abbott carrying a crucifix.

Interestingly, because the Germans had stolen and shipped most of the fine art off to Berlin, many of the paintings were spared. The sculptures were scattered among the rubble, though. It took 17 years for the reconstruction, paid for by the Italian government. Because they had photos and data collected before the destruction they were able to rebuild to exact specifications. Today you can see how artifacts were pieced together and repaired. You can also see gouges made by mortar shells in the columns and walls.

 Here is one of the many gardens:

This is the Polish Cemetery:

Here I am with Pope Gregory, the father of Gregorian Chant. I'm a groupie...

This is a hand from a statue. You can get a sense of the reconstruction project. The first job was to identify pieces and which statue each belonged to.

This raven was pieced together as best as they could with the pieces they found.

This is one of the many mosaics lining the hallway to the crypt.

This is the monk who blessed my holy card and was so grateful for dad's service.

Our time in the Abbey was wonderful. We arrived early in the morning before the crowds arrived so it was serene and peaceful. The gardens and fountains allowed for quiet reflection. We wandered the grounds and sat quietly for some time in the church. While there, we had time to speak with one of the monks who talked to us about the reconstruction. When our interpreter told him about my dad he stopped, turned, took my hand in both of his and acknowledged the sacrifice. He also blessed a holy card that I bought for dad. It was an extremely moving experience.

A Few More Items of Note

We were waiting for a bus at a stop across from and elementary school in Sorrento. Many mothers drove up on motor scooters to drop of their children. Children as young as kindergarten age hopped of the back of the scooter and kissed mama goodbye for the day. Think of how quickly car pool would go if we could convince parents to arrive on motor scooters!

At dinner last night the whole group toasted dad; how touching when all raised a glass to Jim Stevens.

We are passing groves of olive trees and lemon trees - just glorious!