The Abbey at Monte Cassino

The Abbey of Monte Cassino is an imposing structure that stands 517 meters above sea level. It is the home of the Benedictine Monks founded by St. Benedict in about 529. Because of its position with a 360 degree view of the Liri Valley which leads into Rome, it has been the objective of armies for centuries. This magnificent abbey has been destroyed and rebuilt 4 times. The Longobards of Zotone (I have no idea who they were) destroyed it in 577, the Saracens destroyed it in 883, an earthquake destroyed it in 1349 and allied bombers destroyed it in 1944. Each time it has been rebuilt and in 1349 and 1944 it was restored to its splendor as a home to numerous manuscripts, mosaics, enamels, sculpture and frescoes.

Here is a photo of what it looked like after the 1944 bombing:

This is what it looked like before the bombing and what it looks like now:

So, why was it bombed? In order for the Allies to get to Rome, they had to get past this stronghold that was controlled by German forces. While it is generally agreed upon by historians that German forces were not in the Abbey, most will concur that observers were there and artillery was located on the mountain leading up to it. It remains a controversial decision.

There were three attempts to take Monte Cassino by various infantry regiments. The 34th infantry got close but saw it as another Gibraltar so they turned back, the Indian and New Zealand forces got even closer but were driven back. Finally, the Polish forces took it with a ferocity that expressed their hatred for Germany and what was done to Poland. It is interesting to note that a number of the Polish troops were Jewish. We stopped at the cemetery where over 1,000 Polish troops are buried.

Here is a scene from mid-way up the mountain. The abbey sits just beyond the crest of the hill. The road wasn't there then so it was a dangerous climb up the rocky hillside.

From what dad has told me, he was with the first group that attempted to get up Monte Cassino. Mostly likely, being in recon, he went ahead to report back that the hill was a fortress. He speaks of Germans hiding in the hills and firing down at them. Headquarters realized that they had to have another option so they began preparing for "Plan B" (my words). This plan involved landing in Anzio, a bit north, and skirting Monte Cassino. So, dad was sent back to Naples to prepare for the 3rd of his 4 amphibious landings - Anzio.

The Abbot, the monks and about 1,000 townsfolk took refuge in the Abbey because they were sure that it would be a safe refuge. They hid in crypts below the Abbey until the bombing was over. Those that survived climbed down the mountain afterward, led by the Abbott carrying a crucifix.

Interestingly, because the Germans had stolen and shipped most of the fine art off to Berlin, many of the paintings were spared. The sculptures were scattered among the rubble, though. It took 17 years for the reconstruction, paid for by the Italian government. Because they had photos and data collected before the destruction they were able to rebuild to exact specifications. Today you can see how artifacts were pieced together and repaired. You can also see gouges made by mortar shells in the columns and walls.

 Here is one of the many gardens:

This is the Polish Cemetery:

Here I am with Pope Gregory, the father of Gregorian Chant. I'm a groupie...

This is a hand from a statue. You can get a sense of the reconstruction project. The first job was to identify pieces and which statue each belonged to.

This raven was pieced together as best as they could with the pieces they found.

This is one of the many mosaics lining the hallway to the crypt.

This is the monk who blessed my holy card and was so grateful for dad's service.

Our time in the Abbey was wonderful. We arrived early in the morning before the crowds arrived so it was serene and peaceful. The gardens and fountains allowed for quiet reflection. We wandered the grounds and sat quietly for some time in the church. While there, we had time to speak with one of the monks who talked to us about the reconstruction. When our interpreter told him about my dad he stopped, turned, took my hand in both of his and acknowledged the sacrifice. He also blessed a holy card that I bought for dad. It was an extremely moving experience.