A Brief History

My father, Jim Stevens, as one of the soldiers of the 601st Tank Destroyers, was on active duty for the entire engagement of the North African Campaign and The European Theater of Operations in WWII - for over 4 years. He experienced 546 days of actual combat. While he fought at the Kasserine Pass and El Guettar in North Africa and then in France and Germany, it is the Italian Campaign that I have chosen to focus on. Jim has often said that he would have liked to return to Italy. For him it would have been a ritual journey allowing him to reconcile the brutality of the war he fought with the people, culture, beauty and history of the country that he also experienced. At 91, he cannot take that journey so I am taking it for him.

Sunday, October 16, 2011

History, An Ancient Civilization and Beauty


We started our day at the landing beach at Salerno. This is a 30-mile long, crescent shaped beach where dad came ashore from an LST with the 36th Division, US Rangers, and the British 45th and 46th Divisions. The scope of this operation was huge and the danger presented by the enemy position on the mountains nearby was ominous. What does it take to move forward in the face of such odds? There is a monument here to the bravery of those who did it.

Our next stop was the Sele River where the Germans tried to turn the Allied forces around and send them back to the beachhead. Two hours of relentless artillery fire turned the Panzers around and let them know the Allies meant business.

Paestum, the site of Greek and then Roman ruins, was the headquarters for allied operations.  We saw where the troop assembly area and the signal corps command area were tucked in among ancient temples. Paestum is just off the beach at the tip of the bay of Salerno.

Then we were off to the Chiunzi Pass, by way of Maori, where the 601 supported Darby’s Rangers when they held off the Germans, giving the Allies use of the Port of Naples. We had a great view of Mount Vesuvius from this location. Dad’s recon unit went through Maori on the way to Acerno where they encountered heavy opposition. Today Maori is a beach town with a number of resorts, shops and restaurants. This is where we stopped for lunch.

Being here brings to life the enormity of the operation. The mountains are huge, extremely steep, and treacherous. To say getting up there with men and machines was a difficult task is an understatement. Doing so while the enemy has the high ground and can watch all you are doing and fire at you while you’re doing it seems impossible.

The drive from Paestum to Sorrento wound along the Amalfi Coast on a narrow winding road along the edge of the mountains. It was alternately breathtaking and terrifying. 


Above: Listening to the history of this strategic beach

Below: The beach at Salerno





Inscription on the monument to the 36th Infantry Division.
This monument is dedicated to the brave men of the Thirty Sixth Infantry Division of the United States of America who lost their lives in the liberation of Italy beginning on these beaches. September 9, 1943.

The ancient ruins in Paestum where the Allied Headquarters were located


The drive along The Amalfi Coast, alternately breathtaking and terrifying.


 


A monument to Darby's Rangers in Maori. The 601 was heavily involved in this battle.



In Maori, along the Amalfi Coast



Sunset over Vesuvius in Sorrento

We are in Sorrento for the night. Our room looks out over the Bay of Naples and Mount Vesuvius – WOW! We plan to explore this beautiful seaside town after dinner.

2 comments:

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  2. My father too served in the Italian campaign during WWII in the US 36th Division, 143rd Infantry Division. My dad passed in June 2010, but I was able to visit Italy in Sept. 2013 and follow many of his footsteps while he served in Italy. Like you, I really thought it brought everything to live seeing the landscape in which the battles were fought.

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