A Brief History

My father, Jim Stevens, as one of the soldiers of the 601st Tank Destroyers, was on active duty for the entire engagement of the North African Campaign and The European Theater of Operations in WWII - for over 4 years. He experienced 546 days of actual combat. While he fought at the Kasserine Pass and El Guettar in North Africa and then in France and Germany, it is the Italian Campaign that I have chosen to focus on. Jim has often said that he would have liked to return to Italy. For him it would have been a ritual journey allowing him to reconcile the brutality of the war he fought with the people, culture, beauty and history of the country that he also experienced. At 91, he cannot take that journey so I am taking it for him.

Friday, October 21, 2011

The Museum of the Allied Landing, Cisterna and The Road to Rome


The Allied Landing Museum is small but mighty. There are a number of books, photos and artifacts all related to the invasion and subsequent battles. Imagine how pleased Dad will be to know that there is a 601 sign proudly hanging on the wall. Most impressive was the collection of photos on display. We saw many of the locations that we visited yesterday.

This 601 sign was brought to the museum by another 601 soldier.


This municipal building is a focal point in Nettuno and was built long before 1944. Dad may recognize it.
















As we drove to Cisterna I read the account of the 601 engagement that occurred here.  Cisterna was the last stronghold until the road to Rome and was the scene of many firefights, starting in January of 1944 when Darby’s Rangers were surprised by the German’s and paid a heavy price. The 601 didn’t get here until late May of 1944. By that time the city was mostly rubble except for a church and a statue that remained standing. I’m wondering if Dad will recognize these landmarks. While troops were advancing toward Cisterna from the shore at Anzio, the Polish Regiment broke through at Monte Cassino resulting in a final push for Rome. The 601 had tragic losses and injuries along the way; they pressed forward. When my daughter asked Dad once how he could continue in the face of such horror and sadness he said, “You cry, you pray and you just keep going.”

This statue in Cisterna is the only surviving original structure.

This is the church in Cisterna. It suffered serious damage and was reconstructed.

On June 4, after 9 months, Rome fell! Several recon soldiers were sent into the city ahead of all others, just to make sure that the final parade into the city could occur without any resistance. Dad was one of those few men. One of his most vivid memories is of arriving in Rome, unopposed, and absorbing the magnificence of this ancient city.

Imagine, Dad initially landed in Salerno in September and was finally able to get into Rome in June. By the end of the Italian Campaign dad and his fellow soldiers were a battle hardened, confident fighting force. Their job wasn’t finished, however. They left Italy for France then Germany and Austria for another year of fighting until the war was over.

Although Dad saw the worst of mankind in war, he was still able to see the best of man in the people, art and culture of Italy. I, too, while learning about the military aspect of dad’s experience, have been able to experience the beauty of this marvelous country. I have experienced the gratitude that the people of Italy have for those who liberated them. I was presented with a certificate for Dad, from the Mayor of Nettuno, thanking Jim Stevens for his service and expressing sincere appreciation for his sacrifice. This was another moving moment. I can't wait to present it to Dad.

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