A Brief History

My father, Jim Stevens, as one of the soldiers of the 601st Tank Destroyers, was on active duty for the entire engagement of the North African Campaign and The European Theater of Operations in WWII - for over 4 years. He experienced 546 days of actual combat. While he fought at the Kasserine Pass and El Guettar in North Africa and then in France and Germany, it is the Italian Campaign that I have chosen to focus on. Jim has often said that he would have liked to return to Italy. For him it would have been a ritual journey allowing him to reconcile the brutality of the war he fought with the people, culture, beauty and history of the country that he also experienced. At 91, he cannot take that journey so I am taking it for him.

Sunday, October 23, 2011

Mille Grazie




Many thanks to Ron and Judy Drez, our tour guide and “den mother” on this trip. Ron was patient with my naïve questions about military strategies and took the time to personalize the trip for me, pointing out locations and situations unique to the 601. Judy counted heads, handled the details and was a wonderful source of information about the beautiful foliage we saw along the way. We have found new friends in Ron and Judy.

The tour was an excellent balance of military history, culture, art, and fun. I traveled with a wonderful group of people who appreciated the significance of this trip for me.



My sincere thanks to the Shipley School in Bryn Mawr, Pennsylvania. It is through their generosity that I was able to make this incredible journey and share it with my family. It has been a once in a lifetime trip that has broadened my understanding of my father’s experience, given me a deeper appreciation of Italian culture and history, and helped me grow as a teacher and a person. 

Home


The Stephen Ambrose Historical Tour ended with a tour of Rome, the place where Mark Clark and the soldiers of the United States 5th Army had their triumphal parade in June 1944. This did not mark the end of the war, however. D-day in Normandy was days ahead and the drive to Germany and victory would take another year.

The 601 was sent back to Naples to prepare for their fourth and final amphibious landing in southern France. After over 4 years, dad returned home to McKeesport, forever changed by this defining experience of his life.

Joe, Jack and Jim, the three Stevens brothers returned safely home at war's end.

A Closing Thought

A person should hear a little music, read a little poetry and see a fine picture everyday in order that worldly cares may not obliterate the sense of the beautiful which God has implanted in the human soul. - Goethe


I believe that Dad was able to see the beauty while experiencing the worst of what mankind had to offer.



22 gennaio 1944 Lo Sbarco


This exhibition of the Allied landing in Anzio opened in a museum at the Victor Emmanual Monument the day before we arrived in Rome.  Here are just a few of the many photos, along with a surprise find.


A tank pulling a jeep ashore from an LST.

Going ashore at Yellow Beach, where Dad's unit landed.

The Anzio Ritz, a bunker in which to watch movies.

Easter Mass, April, 1944

Milking a cow!
Imagine our surprise to find a display from the 601 Tank Destroyers!





The Tank Destroyer Patch; Seek, Strike, Destroy.

Not Just Any Mass


We stopped into Santa Maria in Trestevere for a prayer when the church started to fill up. We could hear bells and singing from the street, creating a dramatic sense of anticipation. We were in time for the mass of the anniversary of Pope John Paul’s beatification. Here are some photos of the church and the recessional. The organist was excellent, the communion hymn and the recessional were accompanied by guitar. The entire congregation sang and clapped, the church was filled with joyful music.








Good Morning Nettuno

I snapped these photos of the people of Nettuno while waiting for our tour bus.

on their way to mass



He was singing to his granddaughter.









I think she likes purple!
.

How to Cross the Street in Rome


Step off the curb and keep moving. Do not make eye contact with any of the drivers. Do not stop, hesitate, or run back to the sidewalk. 

Friday, October 21, 2011

The Museum of the Allied Landing, Cisterna and The Road to Rome


The Allied Landing Museum is small but mighty. There are a number of books, photos and artifacts all related to the invasion and subsequent battles. Imagine how pleased Dad will be to know that there is a 601 sign proudly hanging on the wall. Most impressive was the collection of photos on display. We saw many of the locations that we visited yesterday.

This 601 sign was brought to the museum by another 601 soldier.


This municipal building is a focal point in Nettuno and was built long before 1944. Dad may recognize it.
















As we drove to Cisterna I read the account of the 601 engagement that occurred here.  Cisterna was the last stronghold until the road to Rome and was the scene of many firefights, starting in January of 1944 when Darby’s Rangers were surprised by the German’s and paid a heavy price. The 601 didn’t get here until late May of 1944. By that time the city was mostly rubble except for a church and a statue that remained standing. I’m wondering if Dad will recognize these landmarks. While troops were advancing toward Cisterna from the shore at Anzio, the Polish Regiment broke through at Monte Cassino resulting in a final push for Rome. The 601 had tragic losses and injuries along the way; they pressed forward. When my daughter asked Dad once how he could continue in the face of such horror and sadness he said, “You cry, you pray and you just keep going.”

This statue in Cisterna is the only surviving original structure.

This is the church in Cisterna. It suffered serious damage and was reconstructed.

On June 4, after 9 months, Rome fell! Several recon soldiers were sent into the city ahead of all others, just to make sure that the final parade into the city could occur without any resistance. Dad was one of those few men. One of his most vivid memories is of arriving in Rome, unopposed, and absorbing the magnificence of this ancient city.

Imagine, Dad initially landed in Salerno in September and was finally able to get into Rome in June. By the end of the Italian Campaign dad and his fellow soldiers were a battle hardened, confident fighting force. Their job wasn’t finished, however. They left Italy for France then Germany and Austria for another year of fighting until the war was over.

Although Dad saw the worst of mankind in war, he was still able to see the best of man in the people, art and culture of Italy. I, too, while learning about the military aspect of dad’s experience, have been able to experience the beauty of this marvelous country. I have experienced the gratitude that the people of Italy have for those who liberated them. I was presented with a certificate for Dad, from the Mayor of Nettuno, thanking Jim Stevens for his service and expressing sincere appreciation for his sacrifice. This was another moving moment. I can't wait to present it to Dad.

Thursday, October 20, 2011

The Sicily Rome American Cemetery and Memorial


This is a beautiful tribute to the courage, the valor and the sacrifice made from Sicily to Rome and a peaceful resting place for those who gave their lives.

Brothers in Arms





 We found the grave of a 601 soldier, Francis J. Wasilk. He died on May 26, 1944, most likely in or near Cisterna. A very moving moment.













Nettuno and Anzio

The sun is shining now, but it poured as we visited the sites of the Anzio invasion. On January 22, 1944 American and British forces landed all along the beach from Nettuno to Anzio. The plan was that the troops coming in from the coast would combine with those who would eventually break through at Monte Cassino to advance to Rome as one powerful force. That did happen, eventually, but for 4 months the troops in Anzio and Nettuno had to fight their way inland while those trying to take Monte Cassino met with the obstacles I noted yesterday.

The 601 came ashore at X-ray Beach, attached to the 3rd Division.


The 601 history notes:
It is military history that there was no real opposition during those first days...elements of the 601st Recon Co. rode to within seventeen miles of Rome without drawing fire.

General Lucas, in charge of the entire operation, did not immediately advance (even though Jim Stevens reported that the way was clear) because he wanted to wait until he had more troops and supplies. On the fourth day, however, German forces arrived to drive the allies back to the beach. Thus, a four month delay in which allied troops were living in a shooting gallery. By day there was artillery fire from German troops on the nearby hills and at night dog-fights between messerschmidts and piper cubs, along with incessant bombing raids. The 601 history refers to the constant horror of the place. Lucas was relieved of command two weeks after the invasion.

During that 4 month period "There was a greater concentration of men and guns and tanks and destroyers on that little beachhead than anywhere else in the world."

I am in awe my father and his fellow soldiers who endured that daily hell.