A Brief History

My father, Jim Stevens, as one of the soldiers of the 601st Tank Destroyers, was on active duty for the entire engagement of the North African Campaign and The European Theater of Operations in WWII - for over 4 years. He experienced 546 days of actual combat. While he fought at the Kasserine Pass and El Guettar in North Africa and then in France and Germany, it is the Italian Campaign that I have chosen to focus on. Jim has often said that he would have liked to return to Italy. For him it would have been a ritual journey allowing him to reconcile the brutality of the war he fought with the people, culture, beauty and history of the country that he also experienced. At 91, he cannot take that journey so I am taking it for him.

Sunday, October 23, 2011

Mille Grazie




Many thanks to Ron and Judy Drez, our tour guide and “den mother” on this trip. Ron was patient with my naïve questions about military strategies and took the time to personalize the trip for me, pointing out locations and situations unique to the 601. Judy counted heads, handled the details and was a wonderful source of information about the beautiful foliage we saw along the way. We have found new friends in Ron and Judy.

The tour was an excellent balance of military history, culture, art, and fun. I traveled with a wonderful group of people who appreciated the significance of this trip for me.



My sincere thanks to the Shipley School in Bryn Mawr, Pennsylvania. It is through their generosity that I was able to make this incredible journey and share it with my family. It has been a once in a lifetime trip that has broadened my understanding of my father’s experience, given me a deeper appreciation of Italian culture and history, and helped me grow as a teacher and a person. 

Home


The Stephen Ambrose Historical Tour ended with a tour of Rome, the place where Mark Clark and the soldiers of the United States 5th Army had their triumphal parade in June 1944. This did not mark the end of the war, however. D-day in Normandy was days ahead and the drive to Germany and victory would take another year.

The 601 was sent back to Naples to prepare for their fourth and final amphibious landing in southern France. After over 4 years, dad returned home to McKeesport, forever changed by this defining experience of his life.

Joe, Jack and Jim, the three Stevens brothers returned safely home at war's end.

A Closing Thought

A person should hear a little music, read a little poetry and see a fine picture everyday in order that worldly cares may not obliterate the sense of the beautiful which God has implanted in the human soul. - Goethe


I believe that Dad was able to see the beauty while experiencing the worst of what mankind had to offer.



22 gennaio 1944 Lo Sbarco


This exhibition of the Allied landing in Anzio opened in a museum at the Victor Emmanual Monument the day before we arrived in Rome.  Here are just a few of the many photos, along with a surprise find.


A tank pulling a jeep ashore from an LST.

Going ashore at Yellow Beach, where Dad's unit landed.

The Anzio Ritz, a bunker in which to watch movies.

Easter Mass, April, 1944

Milking a cow!
Imagine our surprise to find a display from the 601 Tank Destroyers!





The Tank Destroyer Patch; Seek, Strike, Destroy.

Not Just Any Mass


We stopped into Santa Maria in Trestevere for a prayer when the church started to fill up. We could hear bells and singing from the street, creating a dramatic sense of anticipation. We were in time for the mass of the anniversary of Pope John Paul’s beatification. Here are some photos of the church and the recessional. The organist was excellent, the communion hymn and the recessional were accompanied by guitar. The entire congregation sang and clapped, the church was filled with joyful music.








Good Morning Nettuno

I snapped these photos of the people of Nettuno while waiting for our tour bus.

on their way to mass



He was singing to his granddaughter.









I think she likes purple!
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How to Cross the Street in Rome


Step off the curb and keep moving. Do not make eye contact with any of the drivers. Do not stop, hesitate, or run back to the sidewalk.